Pointe a Pitre, Guadaloupe, FWI
Alan's Log:
Joan's Log:
April 30th, 2007
We decided to spend some time in Guadeloupe . It’s an all-day sail from Antigua. We like it a lot! It's bigger than any of the islands we have been to so far and more populated. It’s French and very few people speak English, so Alan’s French has come in very handy. It is very mountainous with a tropical rainforest, a big volcano, and 2 huge waterfalls.Our port of arrival was DesHaies. It is a small village in a deep-water bay and we ducked in overnight to save an overnight passage. While here we filled up the dinghy gas tank (we ran out of gas in Antigua and there was a gas shortage so we were unable to fill up our "car"). Rowing sucks!
We are in a marina in the city of Pointe a Pitre, the
main town in Guadeloupe, and have rented a car so we can tour the island.
Pointe a Pitre is not a pretty town. It has interesting architecture,
but is congested and overflowing with parked cars so it is
impossible to appreciate any of the buildings. We spent a morning
looking around then headed out for the countryside
We ran into another couple that we met in the BVI’s at the
Bomba
Shack. Mike and Linda, who live on "Aquila" their Hylas 49, are
here too. So we have been hanging out with them for the past few days. They
are from southern California and although they have only been sailing for 2 years they have already sailed from the Pacific to the Caribbean. On the
first day we went to the Chutes du Cabret (the waterfalls) a hike up the side of
the volcano through dense tropical jungle. The only trouble was, it was raining,
with low clouds so we couldn’t see the waterfalls!! But they sounded big.
Anyway it was a good hike, and the rain felt lovely and cleansing. Then we
had lunch in a tiny village on the side of the mountain, at a very rustic,
primitive little restaurant.
It had amazing atmosphere!
It was open air, constructed of bamboo (which grows in abundance here), and
palms, with about 5 tables and a small bar. Each
table had a bouquet of fresh tropical flowers. There were roosters crowing, a cow
mooing in the background, and lush tropical vegetation all around us. We
were their only customers. We spent a lot of time reading the menu
that the waitress/chef/owner hand-wrote for us in French before realizing that all the choices were in
fact only one choice - but with all the ingredients
listed. Shredded carrots, shredded cucumbers, sliced tomatoes, with a great French
vinaigrette, shredded dried fish, fried plantain fritters, and (here comes
the only choice) either fried or grilled fish (a small trout, we thought) and
onions, pomme frites (French fries) and a fresh baguette! It was
wonderful. We drank all of their beer! All 5 of them! When we asked
if they had anything else to drink, our waitress said rum punch but would have
to go to the house to get it. Instead she returned with a bottle of
chilled syrah. I guess they were out of rum too... no problem. Then
for dessert, she brought out a big platter of sliced fresh fruit. It was one of
our best dining experiences in the islands.
Yesterday we went on a hike up to
the volcano (Soufriere) another, much longer, steeper
hike, also through dense rainforest. But the weather was much nicer, and the
trail was beautifully maintained. We climbed up above the tree line, to rocky,
scrubby lava fields. Soufriere is currtnely sleeping, but is venting sulfurous gas, so
once we got up there it smelled like rotten eggs! We didn’t go up to the
top because the path started getting really rocky and steep, and my knee was
getting tired. (Alan said James would have romped up! AND would have run to the
top too.) Also the people coming down would look at my knee brace and say
“allo, bonjour....bon courage”! So I thought discretion was the better part of
valor! But we did go far enough to find a vent in the rocks that was
seeping sulfur vapors and was hot to the touch!!! The hike down was a
killer! I took it really slow.
We
were all worn out by the time we got down and were ready for lunch and a
beer! We found a charming little restaurant in the tiny town of St. Claude. La
Tamarinda, where we had another amazing meal! A salad of lettuce and
flaked fish, with a wonderful, perfectly balanced vinaigrette, spicy, salty,
tart, sweet! (Yum, my mouth is watering) Roasted chicken in coconut milk
with herbes de provence , and sweet-potato gratin, and
flambéed bananas for dessert! The service was attentive and friendly. Our
waitress got a kick out of our pathetic attempts at French (excluding Alan, he
is on the verge of being fluent!) and she enjoyed practicing her English on us.
Despite everything (mostly negative) we have read on
the internet and heard, we have found the Guadeloupians to be very open,
friendly and helpful. The island itself is beautiful, with a lot of plantations
and farming. We have seen banana, pineapple, guava, mango and
sugarcane plantations in abundance. The colorful markets are open-air, like you
would find in France, and
loaded with local produce, fruits and vegetables, spices, homemade rums,
and freshly caught fish! Very photogenic too.
We are leaving the marina tomorrow
for the Saints, another little group of French islands 30 miles from here, for a
day or so and then we’ll head back to Jolly Harbour, Antigua. Martin is
flying in on the 5th and Colin will be here on the 6th, then we meet up with all
the ARC boats, only 20 are going (disappointing) and we’ll all leave Antigua for
Bermuda on the May the 10th.
Iles des Saintes,Guadeloupe, FWI
May 3rd, 2007
I think it’s kind of funny that the last place we will visit in the Caribbean has turned out to be one of our all-time favorites. We are in The Saintes, anchored in the tiny harbour of Bourg Des Saintes on the Island of Terre D’en Haut.The Saintes are a group of 3 small islands just south of Guadeloupe, and are very French. If you haven’t figured it out already, I’m a serious Francophile, I think Alan is too. Well, he speaks French, that’s proof enough! Terre D’en Haut and the village of Bourg Des Saintes is what St. Bart’s and Gustavia had to have been like 40 years ago! This island is unspoiled and undiscovered. It is a sleepy, lovely little French fishing village, very Caribbean but with a definite influence of northern France. The darling little red-roofed houses and buildings all look as if they were plucked from a Normandy sea side village. The water is very clear, so there is great snorkeling too.
There are tourists here during the day, but not that many, most of them are French and they leave with the afternoon ferry. There are no mega yachts here at all, I can’t help but wonder why (possibly because it's the end of the yachting season here in the Caribbean and they are all heading out), but I’m glad they aren’t. One evening we took a walk down the long narrow street that borders the harbor, it is lined with shops, tiny restaurants, a few galleries and homes. It was the French Labor Day holiday, and there were many local people out enjoying the cool air. I couldn't help but notice the comraderie and closeness of the local people, everyone was laughing and having fun. The children were having a wonderful time, running up and down the streets; playing; riding bikes and scooters and just being kids, without parents hovering over them. It reminded me of what life used to be like back in the 50's and 60's in America for children, when they could run and play outside without fear of child predators or kidnappers.
We ended up the evening with a wonderful meal, at Le Genois, a cute little seafood restaurant right on the water's edge, with the full moon shining down on us, and a little black kitty cat rubbing our legs. I had grilled Marlin, caught that day by the owners, Alan's dinner was marinated raw dorado (like ceviche). The dessert dujour was chocolate gateaux (cake) it was dark, dark, chocolate, moist and dense with a little scoop of vanilla ice cream!!!! When it comes to chocolate I don't play well with others, Alan only got one bite! A magical night for us, I have to blame it on the moon.
We finished up our time here cleaning the bottom of the boat, something really gross was growing all over it! It was a lot of work, of course Alan did most of it. He is getting really good at holding his breath for a long time. Then Mike and Linda sailed in on Aquila, and we all had a great dinner together on their boat!
We are now heading back to Antigua to prepare for the ARC. I highly recommend visiting The Saintes before it's too late!
Next......Back to Antigua to prepare for the Transatlantic Crossing