En Route between Ibiza (Eivissa) and Mallorca
Alan's Log:
Joan's Log:
Sunday September 2nd, 2007
Since we last wrote we completed a voyage from the south coast of Spain to Ibiza, or Eivissa as it is spelled and pronounced here. We dealt with our first heavy fog enroute and had the uncanny experience of a radio hail on VHF from Tangent Girl which at the time was 80 miles away! (VHF range is normally no more than the line-of-sight to the horizon. Fifteen miles is considered exceptional). We keep running across Tangent Girl. So far the count is;1. En route from Baltimore to Virgin Gorda, at night on a random VHF hail in the dark
2. St. Martin, saw them anchored off a beach
3. Lisbon, they arrived at the marina we were tied up in the marina
4. plus today's incident.
It is indeed a small world out here.
We are wondering if we are fated to continue to encounter them along our voyages. Only time will tell.
We are currently en-route on the 70Nm voyage from Eivissa and Mallorca. We spent three nights at anchor in a bay on the small island of Espalmador, between Formentera and Eivissa, then we sailed a short distance to the South coast of Eivissa where we anchored for two nights in the most delightful cove before leaving for Mallorca, but I am getting ahead of myself.
Espalmador
is a small, privately owned island with a lovely white sand
beach - the best beach we have found since leaving the Caribbean in May.
The bay is full of anchored and moored yachts the inhabitants of which spend all
day either on the beach or on board - being a private island there is nowhere
to go other than the beach (the beaches throughout Spain are public, even on a private
island). There was one diversion however. Sitting on board we noticed that a disproportionate number of the sunbathers seemed to be wearing full length bodysuits with long sleeves - and all of them the same color, slate-blue. This seemed unlikely so we headed over to the beach in the dinghy to check things out.
As we got closer we could see that these people were actually covered in mud. They were standing around chatting, or sitting "drying out" their blue mud suits. While we watched, another group headed past us, most of them naked except for the all concealing mud.
We were intrigued. We had read weeks earlier about an island that had mud baths, but had forgotten all the details in the intervening time. Anyway we could see a trail leading from the beach and we decided to explore further.
The grasses growing on the side of the trail were coated with mud, so we knew we were on the right track. After a short walk we came upon a large salt flat with some puddles of very unappetizing-looking brown muddy water and an unpleasant sulphur smell. In the water, knee deep, were 10 or 15 young Italians cheerfully daubing each other with handfuls of blue mud that they retreived from beneath the surface of the mud. After watching for a few minutes, and obliging them by taking their group pictures with their cameras, they left and were replaced by an English family group. Father, Mother, several Aunts and young children. All naked. We decided we had to try this.
I See Blue People!
This seriously will go down as one of the craziest things we have ever done. The gooey blue mud smelled of sulphur and had fine sand mixed in it which gave it an exfoliant factor as well. Before we knew it, Alan and I had completely covered ourselves with it. I won't say how much of our swim suits came off in order to accomplish our "spa treatment", I'll leave that to your imagination, but I did leave my hat on! We then followed the trail back to the beach, where we reclined in the sun to let our blue suits dry, it was a perfect sun screen too! When we were sufficiently dried out, we waded out into the water to wash it off. I was a little concerned that I would have to scrub hard to get it all off and that it might stain my skin, but it magically slid off in the water, leaving my skin feeling silky and clean. My only regret is that we didn't have our camera with us! To give you an idea here is a picture captured from the web.
After two days it was time to move on. We need to leave for Mallorca on Sunday, where we will get the bow-thruster repaired on Monday and then hook up with Courtney and Lauren in a few weeks and we are keen to get there in sufficient time to accomplish our chores and do some exploring and find some good anchoring spots before they arrive. I am excited at seeing the girls but frankly do not have high expectations of Mallorca which I have I confess never visited, but which has the reputation of overcrowded disco beaches and a cheap package holiday destination for the Brits.
Meanwhile we have the weekend to kill and we just got a radio call from ROSARIO. They claim to have found the most idyllic anchorage on the South coast of Eivissa, we have to try it! So without further ado we bade adieu to the blue-skinned beach beauties of Espalmador and headed the short distance to Eivissa. Here, I regret I must be circumspect. I have tried to give names of places and bays for those that come after us but there are a few exceptions and this is one. This will have to be called secret bay.
The moment we arrived I could tell it was something special; perfectly protected by low cliffs from wind from all points of the compass, it had clear, clean water and a smattering of fishermens shacks and boat sheds along the water's edge; The surrounding cliffs gave the water a deep deep blue color and we could see the sand and weed on the bottom some 30' down and countless fish as we edged our way in to the bay. At the top of the small cliff an abandoned cottage overlooked the scene.
The cliff was indented with caves that had been built out into small primitive homes and boatsheds with sun-bleached log rollers running down into the water. We tied up the dinghy to a gnarled post by one of the boatsheds and went ashore to explore. At the top of the cliff we found fig trees and rosemary and anise growing among the weeds. The cottage was in dire straits with its roof caved-in and some of its sandstone building blocks completely eroded away leaving chunks of daylight. I immediately had the urge to move into the cottage and spend the rest of my life here. We settled in to a day of snorkeling, sunning, sketching and cleaning the boat bottom. Around us a few other lucky families were anchored and a dozen or so land-dwellers had found places to perch around the shore in front of the boatsheds, or on the rocky shoreline. There was no beach, so no crowds. No shop, restaurant, bar, cafe or noise. Just a perfectly quiet place to contemplate the beauty of nature. So much for my low expectations of Eivissa! After two nights here we set off again for Mallorca. We have spent 5 consecutive nights at anchor, the most since we arrived in Europe from the Caribbean, and it is time to find a marina in Mallorca where we can get the bow-thruster worked on and reprovision.
Colonia Sant Jordi, SE Mallorca, Spain
Marina woes
September 9th, 2007
We are back at anchor for a few days, after 6 days in and around Palma, Mallorca. We are learning just how overcrowded Mallorca is with boats! When we arrived from Eivissa we called a number of marinas in the Palma area - all full and none would even take reservations for future visits. We finally found what we thought would be a nice marina an hours sail from Palma. We gave our boat's dimensions and called on the VHF when we got near. The man said, come on in! So we manouvered the narrow channel to Cala Ponsa only to be told, we were too big and they would not have room for us - we barely had room to turn around, then back out again and a night at anchor in the bay of Cala Ponsa. We went ashore for dinner and found that we were in an area that was dominated by British shops, pubs and restaurants catering to the overwhelmingly British presence. Even the restaurants were run by the British! There were Union Jacks everywhere and "Ron's British Chip Shop", "Brits welcome" and "British Owned" signs everywhere. It was no good looking for a restaurant in this crapfest so we asked a policeman (apparently the only Mallorquian on the street) who guided us to a nice quiet restaurant upstairs above the fray (GALA!). GALA! notwithstanding it was a forgettable bay.The next morning we called all the marinas in and around Palma again and this time found a place in the Club Maritimo de Playa San Antonio, in Ca'n Pastillo. The cruising guide says it is very convenient for the airport, which proved to be the case as flights took off over our heads every 5 minutes. The marina was a dud. About 7 miles from the city, the electricity supply was inadequate and the low voltage would not allow us charge our batteries let alone run the air conditioning. The wifi that we paid for did not work half the time. We were stuck there for a couple of days while waiting to get the bow thruster serviced. We were envious of our friends on ROSARIO, who called us on the VHF having just arrived in Mallorca a couple of days after us and having found a berth at the Marina Port de Mallorca - one of the top three or four marinas in downtown Palma. They were tucked in at the end of a pier that was mainly populated with large motor and sail yachts of over 70'. Finally our bow-thruster was examined and we could leave.
The wind was blowing around 20 knots just off our bow and we were in a tight spot in the marina having to make a hard turn out of the slip and through the wind - with no bowthruster - but with a bit of waiting for a lull in the wind (to 15kts) and impeccable line handling by Joan, we were able to scoot out of our slip. We had a pleasant sail the 7 miles to Palma where we had wheedled our way into a spot on the same pier as ROSARIO but only for two nights. Our spot was so small that the marineras (boat handlers) had to pull the boats on either side of us apart just so we could squeeze in. We had a 70' yacht on one side of us and a 90 footer on the other side. Once we were in our slot the two boats either side of us pressed in and closed off the space in front of our boat - we were trapped - parhaps the marina would let us stay another day or so since we could patently not leave without help! We felt like a small house swamped by a condo development next door.
But we were in Palma! A city that is known for its shopping and fine living. We also had some exploring to do and Courtney and Lauren arriving in a few weeks. Barry, a Hylas 49' owner that we met last winter at the Newport Boat Show, keeps his boat here and is a part-time local resident. Unfortunately he was back in Montreal, but we saw his beautiful blue-hulled boat up on the hard being painted and he sent us plenty of advice on restaurants and shopping by email, and we set off with our pals from ROSARIO.
We found a great casual cheap Tapas restaurant near Placa J. Charles called LIZARRAN. We had 6 tapas and four drinks between us for €11 - not bad! It was a long walk to the main part of town from the marina, and we noticed a lovely bike trail along the Paseo Maritim. As we walked through the city we were impressed that much of it is connected with bike trails. So the next day we got out the bikes and cycled miles along the Paseo Maritim and into the city on dedicated bike trails protected from the traffic. This is truly the best way to see a city. You can get around well at a comfortable pace and there is no problem parking anywhere. Just lock the bike to any immovible object.
I should mention here that the climate has changed from the searing heat we experienced in Southern Spain and Sevilla. No doubt the marine breezes helps and the climate here is very livable (in early September, the time of our visit). It reaches about 85 degrees F at the peak of the day, but falls off to the high 60's or so by the middle of the night. It is almost cool enough to want a sweater in the late evening. With the change in temperature we also have noticed less observance of the afternoon siesta...although most shops observe it.
In the end the Marina let us stay a third night and Joan was able to do a small amount of shopping. David & Tni on ROSARIO bought bicycles and negotiated a two week deal in the Marina while some friends of theirs from the U.S. visit them. We left again to do a bit of exploring of the coastline to try and find some worthwhile beaches for Courtney & Lauren's visit.
We will write more about Palma when we return in a couple of weeks and explore it with Courtney & Lauren.
Anchoring Woes redux
After refuelling we headed South East from Palma. MOONSTRUCK can carry about 250 U.S. Gallons of fuel so refuelling is always a bit of a shock to the wallet - expecially at over €1 per litre (about US$4 per Gallon).We sailed to a tiny Cala (Cala = Cove in Spanish), Cala Pi.
It is a
pretty but narrow cove that features in many photographs of
the Island. There is a small ancient lookout tower at the
entrance and a crowded beach at the end of the bay. It
is certainly pretty and very narrow with room for about 6 boats to anchor. We were the
fourth boat to arrive, so still enough room for us. The boats further in
were anchored forward with lines aft secured to the cliff walls. We were far enough
out of the Cala that the stern line was not necessary as we had room to
swing on our single bow anchor. (At night the Southerly sea breeze is replaced
with the Northerly land breeze). A couple of boats anchored near us,
including a catamaran that arrived while we were out to dinner, but none seemed too close as we motored home in the dinghy that night, so we closed up the boat and tried to sleep. The
sound of waves slapping the cliff walls only 50' from us was unsettling and it took a
while for us to drift into sleep. 
At 2:00 am we were awakened by the boat jarring slightly sideways - then it happened again, harder this time. I raced upstairs to find the catamaran was now lying alongside us! I put some fenders out, threw on all the deck lights and hollered and hollered for the owners to wake up. After an interminable period the owner came on deck and we had a discussion (It must have looked very odd, two naked men discussing anchoring under flood-lights at two in the morning!)
The catamaran had anchored fore and aft and when the tide turned they of course remained in place. We however had swung around with the wind as the land breeze started (along with the boat anchored next to us) and were now about 100 feet from our initial position - which put us right up against the catamaran!
It is hard to know who is in the right and who is in the wrong in these situations - Should we have used two anchors, and made sure that the boat next to us also used two anchors? Or should the catamaran have used just one anchor, he had room for this? As the late-comer should the catamaran have checked our boat to see whether we had one or two anchors out? All very confusing - BUT fortunately there is one immutable law of anchoring and that is the last one in is the first to leave if there is a problem. So the catamaran had to up anchors and move further out of the Cala where he found a perfectly good anchorage a couple of anchor lengths from us.
Of course after that we could not sleep for the rest of the night as we imagined all sorts of improbable collisions. The next morning we checked the hull, no damage, and set off again....
Es Trenc beach and the town of Colonia Saint Jordi
September 11th, 2007
We headed further East along the coast to a beach - Es Trenc which completely surprised us. After so many overcrowded, overcommercialized, condo-ized beaches,
here at last was a beach that could stand its ground against any Caribbean beach! Es Trenc is
a 2.5 mile long stretch of wide clean white sand backed by
unspoiled sand dunes. The water is crystal clear and that light turquoise
color that you only see when the water is shallow and the bottom is
white sand. Parts of the beach were developed with straw beach umbrellas and beach bars, but other areas were totally undeveloped. We could see the bottom clearly at 50' as we entered the bay and we anchored in 10'.
We spent one day achored off of Es Trenc Beach, with gorgous swimming pool blue water. I don't think we saw water that clear and as blue in any of the Caribbean Islands we visited. It was so inviting, you just had to dive in!
We are spending about four or five days at anchor, to save a little money and to do a little more exploring, before the girls arrive. We have found the perfect place too, it is the small town/village of Colonia Saint Jordi.
It is
on the west side of the southern tip
of Mallorca. It is tucked into a very protected bay, with a nice beach
and white sand fringing it. It's a bit on the touristy side but
way less than we have been experiencing, and has a lot of charm. There
must have been an abundance of kelly green paint a long time ago as all
the older buildings and houses are honey-colored stone with bright green doors and trim,
and terra cotta tile roofs, a very pretty combination. From where
we are anchored it is just a short dinghy trip to the town dock, where there
are restaurants, cafes (one with internet), bars and a small supermarket, well
stocked with good chocolate! What more could you ask for? Free
wifi! Yes, Alan found it, YEY!!! We found a fabulous restaurant too! MARISOL open since 1964, it is just off the beach with a great view of the harbor. Alan had Clams Marinara, which was one of the best marinaras he has ever had, and that is saying alot! I had grilled Sole, which was served unboned, and grilled to perfection, and accompanied with my new favorite, aioli. We were considering ordering the Seafood Paella, but weren't sure it would be good, so desided to skip it. Then the people at the next table ordered it and it looked wonderful and you could tell they were loving it too. Guess what we are having for dinner tomorrow?
The small local boats, either fishing or pleasure, are always white and follow the same design with a raised prow and two short masts, the sole purpose of which is to form a stanchion from which a boom can be lashed and a canopy attached to shelter from the sun.
NEXT......It is back to Palma to meet up with our daughters for a fun filled vacation.